This page provides information regarding device operation, device option, intallation and trouble-shooting tips for DIMEZE™ products.
Shown below are the solid aluminum alloy faceplates that we’ve developed for our modular product fitments. Interested customers may contact us for ordering details.
This design fits all our 23 x 23mm modules including the regular On/Off switches and the solid aluminum alloy plate definitely brings our products to the next level!
Besides our dimming functionality, a common question from our customers is about the complementary wall plates for our dimmer modules, other than the traditional Schneider Clipsal E30 series. Other than E32, a Two-Gang Wall Plate, C86 can be selected for fitting our dimmer modules for either a Single Dimmer with On/Off button or 2x DZ4G450MULT_White Dimmer. The following photo shows our DZ3G450DIAL installed with an On/Off button.
Follow the same procedure for LED dimmers to install DZ1G1TEN with a Schneider-Clipsal wall plate.
For DZ1G1TEN, connects DIM+ and DIM- control lines for connection to the LED driver and must be connected with the right polarity. For 1-10V dimming, the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE terminals are NOT INTERCHANGEABLE and must be connected correctly. When there is no dimming function from the LED driver, do check for the connection between DIM+ and DIM- with the LED driver.
Flush Box Depth
It’s recommended to a minimum depth of 35mm for the flush box.
DZ1G1TEN also has the Minimum-Trim (Min-Trim) option that allows customized lowest brightness level setting from 0.8V - 3.5V. Once set, the dimming range will be further adjusted between the Minimum-Level and 10V. For example, if the Minimum-level is set at 2.3V, then the dimming range becomes 2.3V (Min) – 10V (Max). To set the Minimum-Level, connect the lighting system together & turn the main dimmer knob to the lowest brightness level and use a screwdriver to trim to the Minimum-level.
Before power-up, always make sure the dimmer is connected in series with the lamp load; connecting dimmer in parallel with lamp load damages the dimmer. While our dimmers do not distinguish POSITVE and NEGATIVE terminals for connection, USB power adaptor requires following the standard wiring connection (Red for POSITIVE & Black for NEGATIVE). As a two-wire LED dimmer, the terminals should be interpreted as input and output to the dimmer processor instead of positive and negative terminals; such design is also commonly known as “Hot” (input) and “Dimmed Hot” (output).
Sometimes, an installer may hit the Minimum-Level-Set option by mistake. In such cases, the suggestion is to do a manual minimum brightness level memory reset. The other possibility is that the dimmable LED driver doesn’t allow further dimming operation below a certain point and maintains the brightness level, even if our dimmer keeps on lowering the line voltage and hits the lowest dimming level; if that’s the case, the DZ1G450CAPS LED indicator will flash when it hits the minimum level.
DIMEZE™ DZ1G1TEN is a 1-10V controller designed for LED dimming application. Recently we've been enquired for using the DZ1G1TEN for Electronics Dimmable Ballast application. Below example shows a T5 Tube (Not a LED T5 Tube) that is connected to a Dimmable Electronic Ballast that's being controlled by DZ1G1TEN.
As electronic ballast has different circuit design from a LED driver, we'd highlight a few key points regarding potential Shielding issue. In typical ballast design, there is a transformer that provides the necessary isolation from the high-voltage, of which has posted a big limitation on the amount of current that the ballast is capable of supplying to the controller. As the current is very small, the control signal (DIM+ / DIM-) is highly subject to external interference.
If a customer finds the brightness level changes when they touch the metal casing of the ballast or the 1-10Vcontroller, it's important to check the followings:
1-10V dimmable LED drivers have three pairs of terminals for connection. They are the AC Power Input, DC Output to LED Light and DIM+/- Input for 1-10V Control. Before connecting with the 1-10V Control, one quick check to validate the LED driver functionality is to first power-it-up with the 1-10V Control input open (below left), which should light-up the LED light as normal non-dimmable driver.
Furthermore, connect the 1-10V Control inputs together (below right), should have no light output from the LEDs. If both okay, we can connect the 1-10V Controller together for dimming operation.
(Below) Normal Connection for 1-10V Controller for brightness adjustment:
DZ1G1TEN is our 1-10V Controller Unit that’s suitable to work with 0/1-10V Dimmable LED Driver for brightness control. By definition, the 1-10V refers to the 10% - 100% brightness control and the Minimum-Trim option that’s available with DZ1G1TEN further adjusts the output voltage to set the Minimum Brightness Level between 0.8V – 3.5V. As a result, the overall output voltage range of DZ1G1TEN can be set between “Minimum” - 10V.
Note from our experience, some 0/1-10V Dimmable LED Drivers would respond differently to the input voltage at low level, particularly when the input voltage is less than 1V. Some drivers would actually cut-off the output to the LED lamps / LED strips. As a result, it seems that the driver can be switched off from the Controller. Some drivers would be benefited by the Minimum-Trim option to show their linearity capability. On the contrary, some 0/1-10V controller would exhibit Dead Travel, or no changes in brightness or no response to turning operation with the same driver towards the bottom end of brightness level.
In order to set the Minimum level, first make sure the controller and the LED driver and lighting fixtures are connected properly (refer to "Quick Check for 1-10V Dimmable LED Driver Connection" section on Support page, if necessary) and turn the rotary button to the lowest brightness level (below left). Then use a screwdriver to further adjust the trimpot the current brightness level either clockwise or counter-clockwise (below right). Once set, this would be the "New Minimum Brightness Level".
Finally, we would emphasize that even when we see NO light output from the driver, the 0/1-10V dimming control CANNOT switch off the AC Power Supply. Therefore the driver is still consuming power. Note prolonged operation of driving the LED driver at NO light output can shorten the driver's life expectancy. Thus, a separate switch or Power Management Unit (PMU) should be required.
See Demo Video with a TCI DC MINIJOLLY LED Driver
For DIMEZE™, each DZ2G450DIAL Digital LED Phase Dimmer has a pre-set bottom dimming level before it leaves the production line. However, due to possible flickering with some dimmable lighting fixtures, or for their own lighting purposes, it’s likely for end-user or installers to set a different bottom dimming level according to the lighting fixtures' actual performance during installation. To address this need, our digital phase dimmer has the Minimum-Brightness-Level memory feature for manual adjustment to optimize the dimming range from the Maximum to a Minimum-Brightness-Level during field installation.
In the following, we use an installation case to show the steps for adjusting the minimum dimming level for two sets of spotlights in a bedroom (Below Left). Two 450W Digital LED Phase Dimmers (DZ2G450DIAL) are installed on the same switch plate with individual On/Off switches for the dimmer units (Below Right). Each group of dimming unit controls approximately 4x 7W GU10 LED light bulbs (i.e. each set of box-type recessed lights in the front and the back).
To begin the process, we first open the switch plate (Below Left) & locate the Minimum-Brightness-Level-Set button for each dimmer (Below Right).
Clear Pre-Set Brightness Level
Before we set it, we’re required to clear the pre-set level by holding the "Minimum-Brightness-Level" button & reboot the dimmer unit at the same time; for the reboot process, use the On/Off toggle switch next to each dimmer unit to first switch-off the dimmer (Blue LED indicator goes off) & switch on the dimmer again (Blue LED indicator goes on). Note only release the Minimum-Brightness-Level-Set button after the Blue LED indicator has completed the reboot sequence.
Set New Minimum-Brightness-Level
Once the pre-set value has been clear, the installer may use each dimmer to dim the lights to the desired level and press the "Minimum-Brightness-Level-Set" button once to store the memory. If the setting is made successfully, end-user or installers may find the new dimming operation would now be limited at the new level. At last, install the switch plate back & complete the process.
Two-Way connection is common in lighting applications, such as staircases and in the master bedroom (at the door entrance and another near the bed). If you’ve changed the lights to dimmable LEDs and you’d like to have a dimmer in the circuit, the implementation is also very straightforward: Add a LED Dimmer to the normal Two-Way switch connection. To do the Two-Way connection, you’d need a Two-Way switch (SPDT).
Below left photo shows a Two-Way switch that has three terminals (left) and a Basic Toggle switch with only two terminals. On the right, a close-up of how the leads are connected to a Two-Way switch: The Light Green wires are the Travelers and the Red wire in the middle is the input to the Phase Dimmer (Live-in).
Since the dimmer is a Single-Pole device, we use a pair of wall plates to illustrate the principle behind. In below-left photo, we have our LED dimmer and a Two-Way switch (SPDT) installed together on a Two-Gang wall plate, while a Single Two-Way switch (SPDT) is installed on the One-Gang wall plate. In this setup, users can switch the light on/off with either one of the toggle switches. When the light is on, the dimmer can be used to adjust the brightness level as usual.
The above right photo shows the actual connection behind the plates from the Live-wire to the LED driver. The AC power flows into the middle terminal of the Two-Way switch in the One-Gang plate (Brown wire on the leftmost), then it flows into the Two-Way switch on the Two-Gang plate by either one of the Travelers (the pair of Light Green wires that actually connects to the other Two-Way switch on the Two-Gang plate).
On the Two-Gang plate, the middle terminal of the Two-Way switch provides AC power to the dimmer (Top Red wire, Live-in). The Dimmed Live out of the dimmer (Bottom Red wire, Live-out) is further connected to the LED driver’s Live wire (Brown wire into the LED driver), while the LED driver’s Neutral wire is tired to the outlet (Blue wire). The DC output of the LED driver is further connected to the LED lamp as usual.
Caution: Does Not Always Work?!
The above installation is very straight-forward & this is because our dimmer has a Restrike feature that allows the dimmer to switch on the light at low brightness level. However, if a dimmer doesn’t support this feature, it’s possible that the light would NOT be able to switch on unless the dimmer is physically turned to the MAX brightness level or a higher level. Users should take note when they encounter this kind of situation.
Note also that if you’d like to have even more locations to switch-on/off the light (i.e. Three-Way or Multi-Way), the above idea remains, except that you’d need DPDT switches (4 terminals) for the further connections; please consult Licensed Electricians for actual connection. As a matter of fact, we’ve already developed the required technology for doing true Two-Way / Multi-Way Dimming, meaning that the dimmers can be used to control the brightness level for the same lamps/drivers connected in-between. This would further boost the LED dimming applications to be more comprehensive, but this is beyond this discussion & we’d only cover this in more details later.
[New Content] See more of Our Proposed Multi-Way Dimmers in a Video here
In the previous section, we’ve shown about the wiring of a Two-Way Dimming Control. If we’d like to have more than one group of Two-Way Dimming Control on the same panel, we can replicate the wiring shown in the previous section, which we’ve done it with 2x DZ3G450DIAL here.
The above photos show the two independent dimming control groups, marked as “1” and “2”, that are connected to the same switch panel. Both switches marked in the same group can be used to switch on/off the lamps, which is the Standard 2-way Operation. At the same time, note that we have 2x Live-wires connected together and just 1x Neutral wire for a return to the AC Mains.
(Left) Only one group of the lamp is ON; this group of lamps can be On/Off by either of the two switches marked as "1" on separate panels (separate locations).
(Right) Both groups of lamps are dimmed at the same time and can be operated independently.
Both lamps are Standard Dimmable (GU10, E27 in the example) or AC Mains Dimmable Lighting Fixtures, e.g. Ceiling Lamp.
See how this Two-Way Dimming works in a Video and Introduction of our Proposed Multi-Way Dimmers here.
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